Madagascar to South Africa August - September, 2007

Departed Madagascar at Cape St Andre heading for Isla Juan de Nova 150 miles out in the Mozambique channel. We were given a 3 day weather window and set off.  Didn't make it. A SW blow arrived with just 30 miles to go but Juan de Nova could have been the other side of the world as far we were concerned we just couldn't make it.  Spent the next 2 days battling 35 to 50  knot winds trying to maintain our southing. When it had blown through we had lost 50 miles and  Peter was tired. The boat  was fine of course, nothing broken except a shorted alternator . We  managed to maintain the batteries through solar and wind generator right through to Richards bay.

As we were now well over towards the Mozambique side it was decided to beat SW and hit the Mozambique / Aguilas current for a lift down the African coast. We were 200 miles South of Isla Mozambique in the current when we had another bashing from the south west again. A nasty place to be with wind over current. Ran for shelter and spent the next two days in a rolly anchorage behind a small Island 15 miles off the coast at 17 deg. south.  We had company the local Prawning Fleet.

Headed back out after the South West blow with Fred's (Durban weather guy) insistence that everything for the  next few days would be OK. After a lot of hard pounding we entered a tiny backwater called Inhambane in Mozambique . This area was first explored in the 1530's by the Portuguese and is now a thriving Port Town.  We anchored in an inlet close to the town hiding from another expected southerly gale and  awaited a weather window for our sail to Richards Bay in South Africa, a mere 400 miles at 23.5 South.

So, we were 400 miles to Richards Bay, 870 From Mayott. 23 days to make 870 miles!!!!. 40 miles a day in the right direction!!.  We usually make between 120 to 150 a day. We actually did 1200 plus over the ground. Sucks. We had a 5 day wait before another southerly gale blew through. We were not looking forward going back out across the bar in the left over swells but everything was Ok and we made it out of the bar without any problems. We actually had a wonderful sail doing up to 10/11 knots over the ground at times with a strong Northerly wind and the Mozambique current with us. Made Richards Bay in less than 3 days.

After organizing ourselves for a few days went to a Game Park. Left the Marina at 4:30 a.m. to get to the gate for 6 a.m.  Heidi (a cruising friend) had told us that if we got there early we would be rewarded with seeing animals eating and moving about.  She was right as soon as we got entered the Park we saw loads of Giraffes, Zebras and Antelopes. We traveled further and found a side road and were excited to see a big lion walking along the dry river bed it was an amazing sight.

We kept seeing animals and when we saw our first rhino it was just a wonderful experience.  The buffalo, rhinos, zebras, giraffes, antelopes, etc. were just everywhere we looked it was like being in a Discovery Channel program but inside the program not just watching in our armchairs, it was mind smacking. Found a waterhole with zebras and rhinos just hanging out.

Met up with a guide who was taking around some tourists to see rare animals like cheetahs, lions and leopards.  We were told that a short distance away there were two lions who had just killed a buffalo and were eating and guarding their prey. We followed the Guide and he let us climb onto his elevated animal watching truck . Had to park right behind him so that the lion wouldn’t see us.  What a wonderful opportunity to see a lion eating his prey with the other lion guarding it.

We were about to go when the Guide said would you like to see a mating pair of lions and we said YES very excitedly and followed him for a few miles of dirt road.  We missed the mating but found the lions lying in the grass and got some fantastic pictures.

Elephants were our next discovery.  They are big. Managed to get some really good pictures  both in the grass and one of them walking behind some water buffalo in the dried up river bed.

By 12:30 we were really tired and very happy with our sightings and set off back to the boat after such a wonderful and exciting day at the Game Park. We will definitely come back again and again.

We left the boat again a few days later so that we would get to Hamilton Road in the Drakensberg Mountains. We were booked into the Nottingham Road Hotel a historical Hotel from the 1800’s. Wonderful rooms with a Jacuzzi – what a luxury for us.

Peter spent the day hiking and fishing whilst I caught up on some reading.

Our next stop was a Dairy Farm as we had the use of a Fishermen’s Cottage there. The cottage was 1900’s style with a big open fire place. We stocked up with stuff from the local Spar shop and spent two days hanging out. Peter again went fishing  but no luck.  Spent our evenings in front of the fire reading and watching TV. 

Went to Giants Castle Camp right in the middle of the Drakensberg Mountains it was about 50 km from the Cottage and took about 2 hours to travel there by dirt road. It was situated on a grassy plateaux among the deep valleys below sheer rock faces of the High Drakensberg. Great for hiking, rock climbing, mountain biking with the prehistoric rock art as a special attraction.

The cave was about 40 minutes hike from the main camp to the cave where the rock art was. It was OK but very similar to the rock art we saw in Australia - are we getting  jaded!.

Spent the next week doing projects and organizing for our trip to Canada.  Got the Stanchions sorted out and managed to get the boat organized for a haul out. We were ready for our next trip to the Game Park.

Set off early for our 2 day trip to Imfolozo and HluHluwe (ShShewi).  Went into the northern section of the Park which is called HluHluwe which is really quite more scenic than the Imfolozo where we had been before 

Saw zebras, rhinos, antelopes, wilderbeast and buffalo. Came up to the crocodile pool and found a small croc lying in the water.  Just beyond that there were some beautiful blue and yellow birds (malakite kingfisher) just hovering just begging to be photographed. And, in a very scenic waterhole we were privileged to see 6 giraffes and one black Rhino (there aren’t many of these rhinos in the park)

We arrived at the Camp where we had booked to stay in a Safari Tent accommodation. Checked in and had a cup of tea and a nap and then proceeded to start a circuit in the Imfolozo part of the Game Reserve. It was by now 3:30 p.m. and the animals would be up and about after their rest during the heat of the day. The animals at about 10 a.m,. until about 3 p.m. are lying around and you can’t see them hiding under the shade of trees and grass. Whereas early and later in the afternoon they are up and about eating and hunting again. 

Got up early for our drive around the game park.  Just got out of our driveway when we were confronted with an enormous male elephant coming out of the bush onto the road. We were amazed at the sight and I started to take photos of it. One guy in a  Chalet opposite saw the Elephant and was taking lots of photos but the Elephant spied him and headed for his chalet. I have never seen a person move so fast. He sped into the back entrance to his unit.  The elephant followed him looking really pissed off but stopped at the breakfast table at the rear and proceeded to eat their interrupted breakfast.  They by this time had disappeared around the other side of the Chalet into their unit and seemed quite concerned about what the Elephant was up to. All the time we watched this drama going on in front of us, it was fascinating. For some reason he was pissed off again and banged on the window of the Chalet with his trunk and smashed the window.  He took his time to meander through the tantalizing leaves and branches on the trees between two chalets with both of the occupants being trapped inside until the Elephant decided to move on.

After such an interesting start to our day we moved on and meandered through the roads and loops of Imfolozo Game Park and saw loads more animals.  In the afternoon went to some more scenic routes that we hadn’t been to and went to a Hide (Bird lookout).  At sunset we went to see the spot where we had spotted the lion on our previous visit and were rewarded with another sighting of that most beautiful animal the Lion.

Before dawn the next day  (4:45 a.m.) I was woken up by Peter patting me on the shoulder asking me to get dressed very quietly.  Apparently the same elephant from yesterday was outside our Tent within a few feet and Peter wanted us to get ready in case we had to retreat to the Car in a hurry.

The cheeky little blighter was munching away on tree branches and leaves around our tent.  We managed at one point to get to the Car ready for a quick getaway if we had to. He was circling our Safari Camp having his breakfast whilst we were desperate for a cup of tea.

At one point Peter thought he could get back to kitchen tent to start making the tea but the Elephant saw him  and charged. He only just made the car we made a quick le Man start off up the track from our tent.

Went back thinking he was gone as we hadn’t seen him for 15 minutes and parked the car and Peter again trying to get back to the Kitchen was seen by the Elephant and he almost didn’t make it back to the Car this time as the Elephant was onto us and within a couple of feet of pouncing when again we managed to get away. This time he followed us up the track and lost interest , thank heavens.  We saw him heading off to greater pickings for his breakfast beside another Safari Tent which was unoccupied. 

We gingerly drove back to our tent and had a quick breakfast before setting off on our last day at the Game Park.  We had lost about 1 hour and 20 minutes with the elephant saga but didn’t mind that as we really had a close up encounter that will never be forgotten. Left the park after a wonderful three days and felt really good that we had been able to visit the Game Park and stay in a Safari Tent.

After a few days of organizing we left for Canada to see our family.  We were especially excited about seeing our new Grandson.

Our next installment will be when we return to South Africa and our  trip down to Cape Town past the three Capes.