FRENCH POLYNESIA  April 2004 - July 2004

Marquesas and Tuamotos Archipelago:

From Puerto Vallarta we set sail  for the Marquesas at the end of March.  Our 22 day voyage was quite uneventful and we battled light winds most of the way to the Equator. Just after  the Equator we had four nights of squalls and lightening storms with winds gusting  up to 30 knots in the South Pacific convergence zone. 

The celebration for crossing the Equator was held on April 13th at 1:30 a.m., with music, dancing, champagne and chocolate cake.   Those who have never sailed across the Equator are named Pollywogs and are elevated to the title of Shellbacks once the equator has been crossed, so we are now Shellbacks! 

We toasted King Neptune and Davy Jones and gave them champagne and chocolate cake. We would have liked to have swam across the Equator but at 1:30 a.m. that option didn't seem so attractive!

We made landfall in the Marquesas at Fatu Hiva which is part of the Marquesas group of islands.  The Marquesas are the northern division of island groups that form French Polynesia.

On April 18th at sunrise we entered the Baie des Vierges (the Bay of Virgins) . The Bay of Virgins was originally named the  Baei des Verges (without the "i" in Verges) the Bay of Dicks is the translation of this so we are told.  The missionaries when they came were outraged at the name and they slipped in the extra "i" to make it virgins.  The Bay is surrounded by several unmistakable phallic basalt pillars which obviously had a part in the name.

In Fatu Hiva Joyce bought a tapa cloth and a tiki mask from the villagers. They seemed to us to be more interesting than other villagers we met during our time in the Marquesas. We both think the main reason we enjoyed Fatu Hiva so much was that Bob on the sailing boat Twixt, who speaks excellent French was our translator, and he really enjoyed showing us around. Bob had been there for about 8 days when we arrived, and was well known by the villagers, so we received a great welcome. Bob is another  Canadian sailor  from Gabriola Island.

We walked inland to the waterfall which was really cool.  There was a pool at the bottom of the fall, that was very refreshing to swim in after a long hike. The temperature was over 90 degrees with 78 per cent humidity.                                                                                                                              

Ua Pou was really enjoyable. We anchored in Hakahau and really had a great time there. Didn't particular like Hiva Oa, mainly the anchorage (too rolly) of  Atuona although we did check in there. We visited Gauguin's grave in the cemetery above the village and left flowers on his grave. It was the first place we bought baquettes which we have been addicted to ever since. Fresh bread, French cheese and pate what a treat!

In Nuka Hiva the main island we anchored at Baei de Taiohae and that was OK but I think we were spoilt in Fatu Hiva. The villagers from Fatu Hiva were the most lovable and friendly people we met in the whole of the Marquesas.

Our next stop was to a bay about 5 miles west of Baei de Taiohae which is Baie Taioa. The Bay is commonly known as Daniel's Bay after the friendly Marquesan who lives with his family on the shore of the bay.  The anchorage was very protected and the west side of the bay has a very steep mountain.  Boats can land near the river at the eastern end of the bay to walk through coconut palms and up a slope leading through a valley. This leads to a spectacular high and narrow waterfall cascading from the 2,000 foot plateau to the valley below.  

After leaving the Marquesas we arrived in Mahini Atoll in the Tuamotos Archipelago, after a four day sail  and spent about 5 days there. We snorkelled, explored, had a pot luck dinner on the beach with other cruisers and went reef walking looking for shells. 

Our next destination was Rangiroa which is so beautiful. The lagoon is turquoise and an incredible slate blue colour. We anchored off a luxury hotel (Kia Ora Hotel) and felt we had arrived  in paradise!! Apparently Tahiti Island can fit inside the Rangiroa atoll it is so big - about 45 miles long and 20 miles wide. 

Explored and walked the reef at low water,  visited a Black Pearl Farm in Avatori village and  took a few days to sail to the eastern end of the lagoon. The distance we sailed was about 25 miles and the anchorages and motos were incredible with no-one around but us. We had to negotiate around coral reefs to reach the end of the lagoon but Peter was up the mast giving directions like an Admiral of the fleet!!

Society Islands

Our next stop was Papeete on the island of Tahiti which is the main island in the Society Islands and the capital of French Polynesia. We spent about two weeks exploring, sailing around the island and re-provisioning before setting off for the Leeward Islands.

We left Tahiti for Moorea and had a few days relaxing in a beautiful lagoon.  Peter found in the shallows there some bone fish which he has been looking for since Rangiroa.

After Moorea we went to Hauhine. This island was one of the best islands in the Leeward Islands.  We found some really quiet and beautiful anchorages to hang out.

In Tahaa we had a celebration for Canada Day with about 4 other boats.  Three were Canadian and a boat we adopted as a Canadian for the day.

Bora Bora was the last main Island we visited in the Society Islands.  The yearly festival was on and we had the privilege to be able to be part of it for a few days.  Photographs from the festival are on the South Pacific Picture  gallery.

Sunset Bora Bora

We left French Polynesia on July 22nd for Rartonga in the Cook Islands and arrived  there on July 26th.  Our next update should be in Tonga.